Greg Long is a surfing legend. He is the only surfer to win the Quiksilver Big Wave Invitational, the Maverick’s Surf Contest, and the Red Bull Big Wave Africa event. Additionally, he is the most decorated surfer in the Billabong XXL Global Big Wave Awards. He is widely regarded as one of the best big wave surfers in the world.
Here’s a clip from ‘Sine Qua Non: The Psychology of Big Wave Surfing’ which, through the eyes of Greg, provides an intimate portrait of the mentality, risks, and lifestyle associated with pursuing monstrous waves around the planet.
Watch the full video below: