Next minute you’re in the impact zone…

It takes a lot of training, fitness, nerves of steel and some great big kahunas to put yourself in the path of slabs like this at The Right in WA. Mark Mathews recounts ‘this swell was just four days straight, in the 20 foot range’.

“There was so much water moving off the reef. One minute you’re so far on the shoulder you might as well be on the jet ski, and then five seconds later I’m in the impact zone swimming under bombs. It’s… Yeah, really is frustrating when you want to get this shot and you just can’t.
And then on the third day…”

– Russell Ord

 Watch ‘One Shot – An Image & An Attitude’ below: